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Bejtfj 

James Rive 



Old Dominion Series, No. 2. 
Compiled from various sources, for the 
Old Dominion Steamship Company, 
by Robert F. Day, Editor of The Pilot. 



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Author. 
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THE JAMES RIVER 

In former days, and by that is meant the days before 
the great and worthy Columbus, the Powhatan River 
was the paradise of the redman and well it might have 
been. Here he paddled his cedar boat and speared 
his "swift and finny prey" in true barbaric style, or 
bent his bow on the water fowl or antleredstag browz- 
ing in the brake. Here the bronze-breasted wild 
turkey abounded and at times the air was darkened 
by a flight of wild pigeons. Throughout the entire 
length of this magnificent stream, from its source in the 
mountains of West Virginia to its debouchement in 
the Bay. three hundred and sixty miles, the lowlands 
and uplands were covered with a luxuriant vegetation. 
Wild fruits of all kinds grew upon the bluffs and in 
the woody recesses, and for months every glen and 
vale, headland and bight were embowered in "trailing 
vine and fronded fern" and thousands of flowers of 
fragrant growth. 

From mountain to sea "this warm and golden zone" 
offered an enchanting prospect, the Arcadian solitude 
and inviting repose of its shores, to nations far across 
the seas; step by step the savage was forced to yield 
his territory to the overwhelming wave of civilization 
which swept him farther and farther inland and estab- 
lished the "seat of Freedom's throne" on the fair 
shores and stately curves of his loved I'owhatan. 

On the beautiful bluffs and uplands of this river 
with banks of "many a winding 'bout" English fami- 
lies of high degree purchased, or, better still, received 
by King's grant, large estates, and erected stately 
homes modelled on the English country house; here, 
surrounded with all the comforts and luxuries which 
could be brought from England, they lived the life of 
petty sovereigns, gave the lordliest feasts, drank the 
best wines imported from sunny isles, had their 
escutcheons painted over the portals or carved in rich 
mahogany over the wide-mouthed fireplaces and had 
their portraits painted "in gold-laced coat and curling 
wig" by the masters of portraiture; and their dames, 
painted in all the beauty of curving line and trailing 
lock, with powdered hair and shimmering silk, look 
down on us now with gentle, reminiscent eye; so life- 
like are they that one can almost perceive the faint, 
exquisite perfume exhaled from a "daintie" person- 
ality. 

But these men and women left "footprints on the 
sands of time." Their days were not passed in enjoy- 
ment alone, they accomplished t^eir destined end. 
The Byrds of Westoier, the Carters of Shirley, the 



Harrisons of Berkeley and Upper and Lower Brandon, 
have all left their impress on the Nation's past. 

The fire and smoke of three different wars have 
marred thesod, and thetrampof battalions hassounded 
along its banks. The army of Cornwallis on its march 
from Petersburg to Yorktown, crossed the river at 
Westover, thence onward across the country to York 
River to meet the disastrous close of the most dramatic 
event of the eighteenth century. Benedict Arnold 
with his ruthless Hessians set fire to Old Warwick 
and to Aiken's Landing. The stain of dishonor on 
his "crested blade," however, stood out in no sharper 
relief to those whom he had betrayed than it did to 
those who in warfare used him and in peace despised 
him. Norfolk and Hampton were both stormed with 
shot and shell by British guns; and in later times the 
bloody, fratricidal strife between North and South 
centered on the James. 

Drewry's Bluff, King's Mill, Malvern Hill, Turkey 
Bend and others, are all profiled in the lurid smoke ol 
battle, while the roar of McClellan's guns, the tramp 
of Butler's army and the clamour of his camp near 
City Point were daily events. Dutch Gap, itself a 
memorial of the war, cut by General Butler, has since 
been widened and deepened for the greater conven- 
ience of navigation. At Wilcox Landing General 
Grant brought his army of one hundred and fifty 
thousand men across the river by means of pontoon 
bridges. The Merrimac and Monitor met in deadly 
conflict in Hampton Roads. Thus from time to time 
has the clangour of war sounded along these historic 
shores, but triumphant peace has now sealed a new 
compact of National Unity.— L. R. D. 



ALONG THE HISTORIC JAMES RIVER 
NORFOLK TO RICHMOND 



NORFOLK 

The commercial and progressive city of Norfolk is 
the main terminal of the Old Dominion Line in Vir- 
ginia and is one of the most thriving cities in the South. 
It is the chiel commercial city of Virginia and, aside 
from its enormous railroad and shipping business, is 
rich in histori' interest. 

One beautiful landmark of colonial days, Old St. 
Paul's Church, was built in 1739, the bricks imported 
from England. This venerable edifice has stood 
through trials of war, fire and pestilence. 

PORTSMOUTH 

Across the Elizabeth River from Norfolk, andclosely 
connected with it by ferries, is Portsmouth, the termi- 
nal of important railroad lines and the location of a 




VIbWS IN NORFOLK 



United States Navy Yard. The battleship ''Texas" 
and the cruiser "Raleigh" are products of this Yard. 

On the River front in the northern portion of the 
City, the beautiful Marine Hospital grounds can be 
seen. The hospital itself is one of the first buildings 
noticed upon entering the Harbor. 

BUSH'S BLUFF LIGHT VESSEL 

Was established a few years ago as an aid to navi- 
gation in the Norfolk Channel. It shows two fixed 
white lights. 

HOSPITAL LIGHT 

Hospital Light in Norfolk Harbor, shows a fixed 
red electric light from a mast on Hospital Point. 

CRANEY ISLAND LIGHT 

Craney Island Light is a screw pile lighthouse 
showing a white and hash light on the edge of the 




Baltle of Monitor and Merrimac, off Newport News 

channel, four miles from Norfolk. It is directly in front 
of Craney Island which, during the War of 1812, was 
fortified as a protection to Norfolk. 

MIDDLE GROUND 

Is in Hampton Roads, and the lighthouse is a mod- 
ern cylindrical steel structure, designed to stand 
against great pressure of ice and rough seas. Its light 
is white and flash. 

NEWPORT NEWS 

The inception of one of the greatest naval construc- 
tion plants on record, and the modeling of it, are coin- 
cident with the founding and development of the City 
of Newport News. Its business interests have mount- 
ed upward with giant strides in the last decade, while 
its record in the list of Atlantic export cities is mar- 
velous. 

How Newport News received its name is interest- 
ing. According to tradition, the old colony at James- 
town, where the attempt was made to form the first 



settlement, was decimated by death and disheartened 
by the repeated massacres of the Indians, and with 
heavy hearts a few of them had followed the River 
down to its confluence with the Bay to await a Ship 
which would bring them reinforcements from the Moth- 
er Country. At last the returning Expedition of Capt. 
Newport was seen and in commemoration of this happy 
event, the colonists named the place Newport's News, 
from which has resulted the modern pronunciation of 
Newport News. 

WHITE SHOAL LIGHT 

Is opposite the entrance to Pagan Creek in the 
James River and is a screw pile lighthouse, built prev- 




The Ship of Captain Newport 

ious to the Civil War. Its foundation is on an oyster 
rock and it is surrounded by oyster beds. It shows a 
fixed white light. 

PAGAN CREEK 
This is a branch of the James River, open for navi- 
gation as far as Smithfield in Isle of Wight County, 
famous for its peanut industry. 

DAY'S POINT 
Day's Point is the point of land projecting into the 
River at the entrance to Pagan Creek. 

POINT OF SHOAL LIGHTHOUSE 

Is another of the screw pile structures, built in the 
middle of the River, near Ferguson's. It stands in 
what is known as Burwell's Bay. 



FERGUSON'S 

Is a landing near the entrance of Pagan Creek and 
is a lumber and fishing station. 

DEEP WATER SHOAL LIGHTHOUSE 

Was built previous to the War and stands in the 
middle of the River. It shows a fixed white light. 

HOG ISLAND 

Near Jamestown, on the opposite side of the River, is 
what is commonly called Hog Island and which is one 
of the ancient settlements. It is supposed to have ob- 
tained its name as far back as 1608, when it was used 
for the safe-keeping of hogs. It was very much im- 
proved of late years by Mr. E. E. Barney, deceased, 
and is now called Homewood. 

KING'S MILL WHARF 

Is directly opposite Hog Island, and is the landing 
for Williamsburg, four miles distant. 

SCOTLAND 

The site of the old town of Cobham is near Scot- 
land Wharf. It was the port for Surry County at 
the mouth of Gray's Creek. The records show that 
the Town was laid off in 1680 and re-established in 
1772. Scotland is the terminus of the Surry, Sussex 
and Southampton Railroad, connecting with the Nor- 
folk and Western Railway at Wakefield. 

JAMESTOWN. 

In 1606, several years after the total disappearance 
of Raleigh's second Colony in Virginia (as the entire 
coast of North America was then called in England), 
Gosnold organized a Colony of hardy and venturous 
spirits which sailed from the Mother Country upon 
vessels, the largest being hardly one hundred tons 
burden. This was the "Susan Constant," and her 
consorts were the "Godspeed" and "Discoverer." 
They landed upon the cheerless, barren shores of Cape 
Henry on the 17th of April, 1607, and spent a few days 
looking for a suitable site to establish a settlement. 
On May 13th of the same year they anchored off a point 
in the James River, then called the Powhatan, where 
they established the first settlement, calling it James- 
town in honor of the then ruling monarch. They also 
gave the River its present name of James. 

Forever around this spot, national interest will cen- 
ter, for it is an ancient landmark of enlightened civil- 
ization, the first prominent English settlement of North 
America, the first Capital. The history of Jamestown 
is the history of the Colony and the country for many 
years. "Here were the first trial by jury, the first 
English church, the first English marriage, the first 
birth of an English child in Virginia and the first legis- 
lative assembly in America. It has been said that 
here the Old World first met the New. Here the white 
man first met the red for settlement and civilization. 
Here the white man first wielded the axe to cut the 



first tree for the first log cabin. Here the first log 
cabin was built for the first village. Here the first vil- 
lage rose to be the first State Capital. The Governor 
lived here and here the Assemblies met. Upon the 
shore of Jamestown the first cargo of slaves was 
disembarked by the Dutch, but a much lovelier sight 
was the troop of 90 maidens who had ventured across 
the Sea to become the wives of strange lovers. The 
impetuous Bacon set fire to the place in 1676 and 
scarcely a vestige of its prosperity was left. Before 
this, it must have been a promising little city, for we 
read of the Church, Statehouse, a brick mill, many 
brick houses, a blockhouse, Governor's House and 
Government Gardens. The place was never healthful 
however, and was almost destroyed in 1706." 




Ruins of Old Tower at Jamestown 

Jamestown Island was formerly part of the main- 
land, being a peninsula at the time Smith and his Col- 
ony landed there. The many freshets and the con- 
stant inroads of the River, formed the passage which 
has made the site of the village an Island. The only 
visible relic of Jamestown is the tower which roofed 
the vestibule of what is claimed to have been the first 
church located in America. The mortar is as hard as 
stone and the bricks are further bound together by ivy 
stems and roots. Recent excavations under the direc- 
tion of the Association for the Preservation of Vir- 
ginia Antiquities, in whose charge the ruins have been 
placed, have revealed the foundations of two churches, 



one larger and inclosing the other. The other struc- 
tures on the Island consist of the old Ambler mansion 
said to be built on the foundations of the ancient House 
of Burgesses, a few modern farm houses, and three 
large earth works of the Civil War. Efforts are being 
made to obtain an appropriation from Congress for 
the purchase and preservation of the Island, with the 
idea of having it made into a National Park. It is 
seven miles from Williamsburg, to which point the 
Capital of the Colony was removed after the destruc- 
tion of Jamestown by Bacon. The Island consists of 
about 1600 acres and is the property of Mrs. Louise 
Barney of Meadowville, Va. A few years ago she con- 
veyed by deed of gift, twenty-two acres to the Asso- 
ciation for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities, 
within which area are the ruins of the old Church re- 
ferred to and the remains of the fortifications of the 
Civil War. 

CLAREMONT 

This is the terminus of the James River division of 
the Southern Railway which connects with the Main 
Line at Belfield. The place where the settlement now 
stands once included a great plantation owned by the 
Allans. 

SANDY POINT 

Across the River from Claremontis Sandy Point, at 
one time the place of residence of Colonel Phillip 
Lightfoot, who was a member of the Council of Vir- 
ginia about 1700. Upon the arrival of the colonists, 
this was the site of the Indian town of Paspahegh. Col- 
onel Lightfoot was the ancestor of Light Horse Harry 
Lee and General Robert E Lee. The house is said to 
have been built in the year 1717. 

DANCING POINT 

The point of land at the junction of the Chicka- 
hominy and James River is known as Dancing Point. 
On the marshy banks of the Chickahominy, which rises 
about fifteen miles to the northwest of Richmond and 
absorbing all the creeks of a wide section of country, 
becoming a navigable stream before it joins the James, 
were fought the battles of Mechanicsville, Gaine's 
Mill, Cold Harbor, Savage's Station and Seven Pines, 
the names of which crop out in history. At the head 
of this River, Captain John Smith was captured, while 
on a tour of exploration in 1607. 

LOWER BRANDON 

This is one of the most famous of the James River 
Colonial Estates. It dates back to 1617, being patent- 
ed in that year by Captain John Martin and named by 
him after Brandon in England. The authorities as to 
the time of the building of the present Manor house 
differ. It was doubtless started about 1712 by Nath- 
aniel Harrison, to whom the property had passed by 
purchase, and added to extensively by his son. The 
house has the appearance of being three separate 
buildings, connected by covered passageways, but in 
reality it is built on the old plan — so familiar to all of 
Virginia blood — one large main structure with exten- 
sive wings. 

The estate and house were considerably ransacked 



in war-times, but the occupants managed to pre- 
serve a large number of treasures. The picture gal- 
lery of portraits of Lower Brandon is famous and con- 
tains many canvases formerly the property of Colonel 
William Byrd of Westover. The house and estate are 
still owned and occupied by the Harrison family. 

UPPER BRANDON 

This was part of the original grant from the Crown 
to Captain John Martin 1617 which was later divided 
into two estates called Upper and Lower Brandon. 
The house to be seen here was erected some sixty 
years ago by William Byrd Harrison. It was cruelly 
burnt by the troops during the Civil War and has never 
been restored to its former fine condition. Upper 
Brandon, however, is not wholly without her treasures, 
for in her rooms still stand valuable pieces of antique 
furniture and on the walls are a few rare pictures. 

OLD FIELD 

Is noted principally for the excellent quality of 
good clay for building-brick. 

STURGEON POINT 

Appears to have obtained its name from the large 
number of sturgeons having been caught in the River 
nearby. 

FORT POWHATAN 

Has a record of having played a part in the War 
of 1812 and the Civil War. It was shelled by gun 
boats in 1862. 

WEYANOKE 

There are some of the historic river places that are 
little known except to Virginians or to lovers of her 
history. Weyanoke is one of these. The original 
plantation comprised 2200 acres and was owned by Sir 
George Yeardley who lived opposite at Flower de 
Hundred. 

Yeardley sold the place in 1626 and about 1665 it 
passed into the hands of the Harwoods, descendants 
of whom still live on a portion of it. The old house, 
dairy, barn and kitchen are still standing, some dis- 
tance back from the river, and some records tell us 
that they were built by Samuel Harwood in 1740. 

On Weyanoke Point stands the old yellow brick 
house which until very recently was believed to be the 
earliest complete structure of its kind in this section 
of the country. It was evidently the original house in 
the early days of the first claim and is still in excellent 
repair. It can be plainly seen from the River. 

FLOWER de HUNDRED 

This originally was the plantation of Sir George 
Yeardley, a Colonial Governor of Virginia, who was 
one of the most prominent and enterprising figures in 
the Colony. It consisted of 1,000 acres and was repre- 
sented in the Virginia Legislature in 1619 — the Gover- 
nor and family lived here until 1626, when he disposed 



of the property and went to Jamestown. It was at 
Flower de Hundred that the Dutch slaveship with its 
memorable cargo deposited half that load that in later 
generations was to be the cause of political contro- 
versy and bitter partisan feeling. The house of Flower 
de Hundred — white and simple — stands back from the 
river, quaintly garbed in surrounding foliage. 

WINDMILL POINT 

This is on the South Shore, at Flower de Hundred, 
and probably obtained its name from the windmill 
which stood there during the time of Sir George Yeard- 
ley. It was here that General Grant laid one of his 
pontoon bridges, over which 130,000 Federal troops 
crossed in forty-eight hours. 

WILCOX 

A landing near Queen's Creek upon whose banks 
is Charles City Court House, well-known as being one 
of the points where some of the Seven Days' fighting 
occurred. 

BLAIR'S 

Is a landing for the many steamers which ply up 
and down the River. 

WESTOVER 

One of the oldest Colonial Estates in Virginia. The 
grand old mansion erected in 1737 by Colonel William 
Byrd, stands to-day much as he built it, save for that 
part which was partially destroyed by fire in 1749. 
This portion was later rebuilt in fac-simile. Colonel 
Byrd was succeeded as owner of the estate by his son, 
Colonel William Byrd Jr., who bore the reputation of 
being the most polished and learned man of his time 
within the length and breadth of the New Colony. He 
is remembered to-day as the founder of two American 
cities, as the author of the celebrated "Westover Man- 
uscripts," and as the father of Evelyn Byrd, the famous 
court beauty and toast of the Old and New World 
alike. 

Benedict Arnold made his landing here January 4, 
1781, with 900 men, on his march to Richmond, and 
Cornwallis crossed at this point. It was the head- 
quarters of Union Generals during the Civil War. 

JORDAN'S POINT LIGHTHOUSE 

Near this lighthouse, which is built on a point of 
land in Prince George County, is one of the principal 
duckinggrounds of the James River. Theriveriswide 
and shallow here and affords all kinds of wild water 
fowl a good feeding place. The light is fixed and 
white. 

HARRISON'S LANDING 

Is the wharf used for the Colonial Estate of Berke- 
lev. 







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BERKELEY 

A Colonial Estate on the North Shore at what is 
sometimes called Harrison's Landing. The planta- 
tion is first mentioned in Colonial History in 1622, but 
just when the staid, unpretentious house was built, is 
a disputed question. The property passed into the 
hands of the Harrison family about 1676, and remained 
in their possession until about twenty-five years ago. 
President William Henry Harrison was born there. 

To this point General McClellan withdrew after 
his retreat from Malvern Hill, during the Civil War, 
and here he remained to reorganize his army until 
ordered to leave the Peninsula. 

CITY POINT 

In Prince George County at the place where the 
Appomattox joins the James, lies the historic town of 
City Point. It is the terminus of a branch of the Nor- 
folk and Western Railway, which connects it with 
Petersburg, 9 miles distant. Just how it obtained its 
name is not known, but the records of the County 
speak of it as City Point as far back as 1720. In 1781 
the British force landed here under General Phillips 
and captured Petersburg. During the Civil War it 
was an important Military Station for the Federal 
forces. General Grant had his headquarters here, and 
President Lincoln was with him when Richmond was 
evacuated. 

APPOMATTOX 

On a high bluff overlooking City Point, stands low- 
roofed Appomattox, the old homestead of the Eppes. 
The grant was made to the family in 1635, and the land 
is still in their possession. In 1751 the original dwell- 
ing was torn down and the main part of the present 
house built. 

It was here that General Grant established his head- 
quarters in 1865 and remained in possession for half a 
year. The name the place bears is probably almost 
as old as the grant itself, and was so called from the 
fact of its river situation, but the James has for years 
claimed the place as its own and looked upon it as 
one of the jewels of its wondrous chain of quaint, his- 
toric homes. 



APPOMATTOX RIVER 

This historic stream which joins the James at City 
Point is navigable to Petersburg. It is said that the 
name is obtained from the Appomattox Indians and 
that in the Algonquin language, Appomattox means 
"a sinuous tidal estuary." There were a number of 
fine plantations situated on the banks of this stream, 
among which was Matoax, the residence of John Ran- 
dolph, father of John Randolph of Roanoke. 

BERMUDA HUNDRED 

Near where the Appomattox River. loses its name, 
lies Bermuda Hundred. It was laid out in the early 
part of the Seventeenth Century and was represented 
in the first General Assembly. The British forces 
under Generals Pnillips and Arnold returning from 
Petersburg in 1781, embarked at Bermuda Hundred. 
It was previous to this, before the upper portion of 
the River was deepened, an important shipping point 
and the port of Richmond for large vessels. In 1864 
General Butler retreated to this place, which is now 
, the terminus of the Farmville and Powhatan Railroad. 

SHIRLEY 

This is the home of the Carters and stands on a 
strip of land jutting into the River. It commands per- 
haps one of the best views to be obtained of the his- 
toric stream. The m=nor house is supposed to have 
been erected about 1650, and unlike Westover or the 
Brandons, lacks the corridor or the flanking wings. It 
has suffered less from war than most of the James River 
places and has bren doubly fortunate, since its gener- 
ations of owners have had sufficient means not only to 
cultivate the acres of outlying fields, but the "yard" 
of the house itself. The estate of Shirley was first 
occupied in 1613 and was originally called West Shirley 
Hundred. It came into possession of the Carter family 
in 1720 upon the death of Colonel Edward Hill, its 
owner, who left the place to his sister Elizabeth Carter. 
It is still in the possession of the family. 




Shirley 



MALVERN HILL 

Each tract of land surrounding the old colonial 
homes on the James River is freighted with remem- 
brances of the great Civil War, and perhaps none 
more so than Malvern Hill. It figured in the Revolu- 
tion, the war of 1812, and here was fought that desper- 
ate and bloody battle between McClellan and Lee in 
1862. Through all these years of strife, the substantial 
old house was left practically unharmed, It was built 
early in the Eighteenth Century and in the annals of 
the State it is recorded as "one of the best specimens 
of old colonial architecture" on the River. 

TURKEY BEND 

This name is given to a portion of the river between 
Curl's Neck and Malvern Hill. Here were gathered 
the gunboats which protected General McClellan's 
movements, when he took refuge at Malvern Hill after 
the Seven Day's Battle. 

PRESQUE ISLE 

Another name for Turkey Bend. 

CURL'S NECK 

This point of land was originally divided up into 
small farms, and chief among its inhabitants in 1676 
was the renowned Nathaniel Bacon, Jr. It was 
later one of the Randolph family's river estates. The 
present owner is Charles H.Senff who built the hand- 
some house standing high on the bluff a little back 
from the River. 

DEEP BOTTOM 

Is the place in front of which a Union War Vessel 
was destroyed, with considerable loss of life, during 
the Civil War. 

MEADOWVILLE 

Is on the west side of Jones' Neck, where is lo- 
cated the handsome estate of Mrs. L. J. Barney. 

TUCKAHOE 

This is one of the Randolph Estates and was long 
connected with that family. The house stands on a 
bluff from which the ever shifting and ever beautiful 
lights upon the River may be seen. As far as can be 
learned, Tuckahoe was built by one William Ran- 
dolph, of Turkey Island about 1720 and is believed to 
be the first frame manor house ever erected in the Old 
Dominion State. As compared with stately Shirley or 
massive Westover, the exterior of Tuckahoe is almost 
insignificant, and yet its very plainness is a charm. It 
is the interior that commands the chief admiration of 
the lovers of the beautiful. 

The house is built in the form of the letter "H," a 
style not at all uncommon among the early wooden 
structures to be found throughout Virginia. 

VARINA OR AIKEN'S LANDING 

It is claimed that here resided John Rolfe and Poca- 
hontas after their marriage. The settlement was 
burned to the ground by forces under Benedict Arnold. 
During the War of 1861-65, it was a favorite rendez- 
vous for the exchange of prisoners. 



Tuck ah oe 
DUTCH GAP AND FARRAR'S ISLAND 

Farrar's Island, named after William Farrar, who 
patented it, was formerly part of the mainland and 
known as the Peninsula. It was in i6it that Sir Thom- 
as Dale left Jamestown and went up the River in search 
of a site to locate a new town. He selected what is 
now Farrar's Island and established "Henrico," but 
the place cid not flourish. In 1619 it was reported as 
containing only "two or three old houses, a poor ruin- 
ated church, with some few poor buildings in the isl- 
and." As a protection to the new town, Dale cut a 
ditch across the neck and built strong palisades along 
its banks. This was undoubtedly the beginning of the 
present Dutch Gap Canal which shortens navigation 
of the River by seven miles. It is claimed that the 
name Dutch Gap is derived from the similarity of the 
ditch dug by Dale, to the ditches made by the natives 
of Holland, when campaigning. 

The course of the River at ihis point is exceedingly 
tortuous and in order to avoid Howlett's Battery lo- 
cated on the extreme end of Farrar's Island, the Un- 
ion forces under General Benjamin F. Butler started, 
in 1864 to complete the work commenced by Dale, so as 
to make a passage by water to the River above. The 
canal was nearly completed, when for military reasons 
orders were given to stop work. In 1879 it was finish- 
ed and made navigable by the combined efforts of the 
United States Government and the City of Richmond. 

It is 481 feet long, 250 feet wide and has an average 
depth at low tide 15 feet. 

CHAFFIN BLUFF 

On the east side, next to Fort Harrison, and op- 
posite Drewry's Bluff, is the place which Butler sur- 
prised September 29, 1864, and captured. The next 
day General Lee failed in his endeavor to recapture it. 

CHATSWORTH 

Another of the Randolph Estates. It was formerly 
the seat of Peter Randolph, member of the Council 
and Surveyor General of the Customs (died 1767,) and 
also the birthplace of Beverly Randolph, Governor of 
Virginia. The original estate has been divided, 
bought and sold, and the original house razed by fire 
years ago. The present house was erected about 
eighty years ago. It is big and quaint, and built on a 
plan long since given up among the more pretentious 



homes — one room deep with great pillars and old time 
entrances. 

DREWRY'S BLUFF 

Seven miles from Richmond. It was the scene of 
a hot struggle in May 1862 when the Union fleet en- 
deavored to force their way to Richmond. It is some- 
times called Fort Darling, but more often Drewry's 
Bluff after Major A. H. Drewry of the Confederate 
Army. 

WILTON 

This old honse was built early in the Eighteenth 
Century by Col. William Randolph, the son ol Turkey 
Island fame, and is in a remarkably good state of pres- 
ervation. Here the poei, Innes Randolph, lived, and 
here in earlier years lived that other well-known Wil- 
ton figure, Anne Randolph, who was known to all her 
friends and to her State as Nancy. 

The paneled hall at Wilton is a thing of beauty, 
and will remain a joy to all who look upon it as long 
as the big house stands. There are two entrances, 
for the big hall runs the depth of the house, and one 
can look from door to door out across the distant 
fields or to the River as it flows silently along. 
AMPTHILL 

This was the estate of Colonel Archibald Cary, who 
was Chairman of the Committee which drafted the 
first Declaration of Rights and State Constitution in 
America in 1776. The house, a fine square brick build- 
ing, is still standing, but unlike the majority of the 
historic James River homes, it faces east and west, 
instead of north and south, so that its side windows 
alone overlooked the placid stream. 

It was probably built between 1730 and 1750 by 
Henry Cary, the father of the patriot, and who is per- 
haps best remembered as the designer of the original 
Capitol and Governor's Palace, at Williamsburg. 

State Capitol, Richmond 




WARWICK 

An old chimney standing on the west bank near 
the colonial estate of Ampthill marks the site of the 
old village of Warwick, which was established prior 
to Richmond. During the Revolution it was a place 
of much importance. Here were warehouses, mills, 
storehouses, rope-walks, etc., which were all destroyed 
by the British in 1781. Warwick Park, directly oppo- 
site, is devoted to local excursions from Richmond. 

MANCHESTER 

Opposite Richmond, is Manchester which is a grow- 
ing and thriving manufacturing city and connected 
with the Capitol by several bridges. The two cities, 
while under separate local administration are one in 
interest and make part of one municipality. 

RICHMOND 

The "City on the James" can claim the distinction 
of being the oldest of the cities of importance on the 
American Continent. 

The James River was explored by Captain Newport 
and John Smith and the site now occupied by the city, 
visited in 1607. In 1609 an outpost was established 
here, but the town was not begun until 1737. It was 
laid out by Colonel William Byrd of Westover and in- 
corporated by law in 1742. 

In 1779 the seat of government was transferred here 
from Williamsburg. 

An attractive City after the Revolutionary War, and 
the residence of the same great families of the Old 
Dominion, it became one of the most fashionable cities 
of the Country. It was the stronghold of the Confed- 
eracy during the Civil war, and its successive invest- 
ments by the Union forces give it place among the 
historic sieges of the World. 

The city is built upon seven hills and abounds in 
ornamental buildings; and since it has become a rail- 
road centre and the head of navigation on the James 
River, it has developed immense commercial interests. 

Capitol Square, the site of the public buildings, 
contains the Capitol or State House of Virginia, the 
Governor's Mansion, the Library Building, the Wash- 
ington Monument, -Statues of Henry Clay and Stone- 
wall Jackson. 

Among the other buildings of the City, is St. Johns 
Church built in 1740, and later made famous by Pat- 
rick Henry. 

At Oakwood Cemetery thousands of Confederates 
are buried and also at Hollywood. At the latter Cem- 
etery are the graves of Monroe and Tyler, Presidents 
of the United States, also Generals Hill, Pickett, Stu- 
art, Wise, and Commodore Maury. 



THE Old Dominion L,ine's new steamers 
' ' Berkeley ' ' and ' ' Brandon ' ' which 
perform the (daily) night service be- 
tween Richmond and Norfolk afford 
an opportunity for a trip which should not be 
overlooked. "In kingdoms," says Bacon, 
"the first foundation or plantation is of 
more noble dignity and merit than all that fol- 
loweth." The first foundation and plantation of 
this vast country was on the James River, and 
the visitor at Norfolk, Old Point and vicinity is 
rightly moved when he boards the staunch steamer 
starting from Norfolk and leaves it at the ' ' City on 
the James." It is a beautiful sail up an historic 
stream, and by old and stately mansions that were 
the country homes of a cultured and courtly race. 
' ' Berkeley ' ' and ' ' Brandon ' ' are magnificent 
vessels 213 feet long, 36 feet breadth of beam, 17 
feet depth of hold, loading 500 tons of cargo on 
a draft of 12 feet. They have accommodations 
for 54 first class and 48 steerage passengers, a 
speed of 15 miles, and perform a nightly service 
between Richmond and Norfolk. 




" Berkeley' 



and " Brandon," the Latest Additions to the 
Old Dominion Line Fleet 



MILEAGE 

NORFOLK TO RICHMOND 
AND RETURN 



j6®=Read 
Down. 



Statute 
Miles. 



25 
29 
30 
36 
39 
39 
47 
48 
57 

60 

61 

62 

62 

61 

64 

65 

70 

72 

72 

73 

74 

75 ■ 

77 

79 

81 

84 

84-5 

86 

86.5 



98 
100 
101 
102 

108 
109 

1 10 



Night Steamers 
'BERKELEY" and "BRANDON' 



Norfolk (O. D. Wharf) 

Hospital Light 

Craney Island 

Bush's Bluff. 

Middle Ground 

Newport News 

Pagan Creek 

White Shoal Light 

Dav's Point 

Point of Shoal Light 

Ferguson's 

Deep Water Shoal Light 

Hog Isiand Light 

King's Mill Wharf. 

Scotland Wharf. 

Jamestown Island 

Dancing Point 

Sand3" Point, Chicahomin3- River. 

Claremont 

Lower Brandon 

Ritchie's Wharf. 

Tree Point 

Oldfield Wharf 

Wilson's Landing 

Sturgeon Point 

Fori Powhatan 

Weyanoke 

Florida Hundreds 

Windmill Point 

Wilcox's Wharf. 

Blair- 

Westover 

Berkele} 7 , or Harrison's Landing.. 

Jordan's Point Light 

City Point 

Appomattox River 

Bermuda Hundreds 

Shirley 

Malvern Hill 

Turkey Bend 

Piesque Isle 

Cur s Neck 

Deep Bottom 

Meadowville 

Varina, or Aiken's Landing 

Dutch Gap 

Chaffin's Bluff 

Drewrv's Bluff, or Fort Larling .... 

Wilton 

Warwick 

Richmond 



Read^S^ft 
Up. 



Statute 
Miles. 



116 

"5 
in 
no 
l°5 



77 
77 
69 
68 
59 
57 
56 
55 
54 
54 
53 
52 
5i 
46 
44 
44 
43 
42 
4i 
39 
37 
35 
32 

31-5 
3° 
29.5 
28 

2S 
27 



JUL OX IW£ 



f9 YEUOfo TAVERN 



i#«^ KING . 



x WILLIAMj 




ROUTES OFSTEAMERS' 

Virginia envision 



OLD DOMINION LINE„ 



©to Bommton 
g>teamsl)tp Company 



aftrgani^cft 1867 



Main Line Division 

NEW YORK-VIRGINIA 

Longest Daily All-Water 

Line in the World 

Sailing from New York, daily, except Sunday, for 
OLD POINT COMFORT NORFOLK 

PORTSMOUTH NEWPORT NEWS 

RICHMOND, VA. WASHINGTON, D. C. 

Sailing from Norfolk for New York, daily, except Sunday 

Connections with Rail and Water Lines to and from All Points 
in South and West. Through Tickets and Baggage Checks 



VIRGINIA DIVISION 

Steamers operate on waters of Hampton Roads, James, 

Back, Poquosin, East, Ware, North, Severn 

and Nansemond Rivers 

NORTH CAROLINA DIVISION 

Steamers operate on Albemarle and Pamlico Sounds, 
Neuse, Pamlico, Pungo and Tar Rivers. 



General Offices: 81-85 Beach St., New York, N. Y. 

W. I,. GUILLAUDEU H. B. WALKER 

President Traffic Manager 

J. J. BROWN, General Passenger Agent 



M. B. CROWELL, General Agent, Norfolk, I 'a. 

JOHN F. MAYER, Agent, Richmond, I 'a. 



r- 




Old 

Dominion 

Line: 



«*v#*»y. 



! 



'. 







Alon 
James River 




